Sync

By Shannon Sturgis The bratwurst dinner at The Pantry. + Enlarge

LITTLE ROCK — 11401 Rodney Parham Road, Little Rock

501-353-1875

Hours: Monday through Saturday 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.

Apple. My life would be better if I’d just said “apple.” Two measly syllables and I could have been enjoying a hot strudel accompanied by slowly melting ice cream— for free — at The Pantry, the new incarnation of what was most recently called Gypsy’s in the Valley Village Shopping Center (next to Market Street). At least that’s what the people dining next to me said.

Apparently “apple” was the buzz word for the day. Sort of like on Pee Wee’s Playhouse, you can say the secret word and, instead of everyone screaming at you, you get some special deal. This seems far more practical, as does the method of distribution. These buzz words come not from Conky, but from an e-mail list you can opt into on the restaurant’s Web site, www.littlerockpantry.com. Genius.

But sans buzz word, there’s still much to appreciate at this cozy west Little Rock eatery. Immediately in the front door is a full bar area for alcohol or espresso and, to the right of that, a main dining room separated by glass panes etched with the fleur de lis. Overhead a series of interwoven wooden beams frame a lantern-looking light fixture. The walls, one almost covered by a brushed, antiqued mirror, are mottled in shades of burnt orange, giving them a stucco look. A handful of tables offer seating out under a covered patio.

It all feels very European, very Mediterranean to be specific. Of course, I say that without having ever been to Europe or the Mediterranean. But when I get there someday, this is what I hope to find, except with a sea to look out on and not Rodney Parham Road.

I would also hope to find a menu this interesting. Rather than specific to one nationality, it seems to be a collection of different dishes from all over the continent. It also can be a learning experience, since the menu gives very little description of what it’s offering, particularly for appetizers.

Never heard of pommes frites ($4)? The menu description “garlic mayo and spicy ketchup” doesn’t help, but calling them french fries might. Likewise if you’re unfamiliar with cheese spaeztle, all the menu will tell you is that it’s served with caramelized onions and costs $6. Good to know.

Granted, I’m sure the staff can elaborate on any questions you might have — in fact, I heard them explaining the salami di cioccolato or “chocolate salami” dessert ($6.50), which is not what it sounds like at all. But asking those questions can make the diner feel a little stupid, leading to uncomfortable ignorance — or, more tragically, a missed opportunity try something fantastic, like the chocolate salami.

To be fair, the dinner menu is not this way. Its dishes are both generally more recognizable and described more thoroughly. The stock pot, for example, tells you it’s cod, fish and dill stock, carrots, fennel and herbs ($14.75) and the wiener schnitzel identifies itself as pan fried pork with potatoes and lemon ($10.95).

But if you’re flying blind, don’t be afraid to ask.

The Dish

Truffled Deviled Eggs ($4.95): Though a world apart from my Aunt Linda’s delicious specialty of holiday gatherings, these light and airy eggs were still quite tasty once a little salt and pepper were added. I’m still not sure what makes them truffled, but the bit of hard parmesan cheese topping them was an excellent flavor addition.

Mushroom Panini ($7.25): I have had paninis before, but this is the flattest sandwich I think I’ve ever seen. Maybe that’s because the Arkansas mushrooms were so thinly sliced that they barely registered. The topping of goat cheese and arugula, while flavorful, kind of took over. The homemade chips were excellent, though.

More Dish

Sitting at the table next to me I found Little Rock diners Gus and Chris, with “foreigner” Wes from Fayetteville. Describing himself as a frequent regular who has tried and liked most everything on the menu, it was Gus who brought the others here — much to their delight.

“This was my first time here, but I will definitely be coming back,” said Chris.

All three had the grilled bratwurst dinner ($11.50), and agreed it was delicious.

“The sauerkraut was really good,” said Wes.

“I’m not a sauerkraut person, but I also thought it was good,” added Gus.

“It was Bavarian kraut, that’s why,” chimed in Chris, who explained that most kraut is sour (surprise!), but that the seeds in the Bavarian kraut make it sweeter and more appealing to most people.

Who knew? We’ll have to take his word for it.

The group was also highly complimentary of the service and of the beer list — Scrimshaw, Fat Tire, Franziskaner, Spaten and Kostritzer on tap, as well as a wide assortment of domestic and European bottles.